Lanvin’s Siddhartha Shukla Discusses ‘Brand Framework’ and Future Plans

Lanvin will not be on the official calendar for Paris Fashion Week this week, meaning there will be no runway shows, press previews or reviews.

But behind the scenes, the French brand is making preparations on multiple fronts.

More from WWD

Peter Copping, who took office earlier this month As art directorworking on his first collection Lanvin For the fall 2025 season.

“The format and timing of the reveal are still being discussed,” said Lanvin’s executive vice president, Siddhartha Shukla. “Right now, we are planning to stage two mixed shows in 2025.”

Meanwhile, the brand has released the third installment of Steven Meisel’s “Character Studies” campaign, due out in 2022, voicing a more sedate form of chic that ties in with Lanvin’s claim to be Paris’ oldest fashion house.

“The mood at Lanvin today is energetic, collaborative and hopeful,” said Shukla, who joined the French label from Theory at the end of 2021.

Siddhartha Shukla

Since then, the brand has introduced a redesigned logo, launched a comprehensive reset of its product strategy, placed an emphasis on leather goods and accessories, and introduced special projects under its new Lanvin Lab brand, which currently features collaborations with rapper Future. and conceptual artist Erwin Wurm.

Shukla gave an update on where Lanvin is now and where it is headed in an exclusive interview:

Earth Day: Many fashion houses do a clean sweep of their products and image when a new creative director comes in. That doesn’t seem to be the case at Lanvin. Why?

Siddhartha Shukla: Setting a new direction for Lanvin was my goal from the start, a business imperative, and something I discussed at length with the owners before accepting the role of running the house. There were important systemic and strategic issues to be addressed from the back of the house to the front, and there was no time to waste – so we jumped right in. A return to Jeanne Lanvin’s ‘chic ultime’ and a new French sophistication are essential to the brand framework, informing all our decisions and actions, from product and image to people. The cultural significance of the house, the momentum of the industry, the expectations of the market – all meant that the groundwork for formative development would be done in parallel with the search for a new creative leader.

Earth Day:Steven Meisel How important are visuals in setting the tone of a home and expressing its style position?

SS.: Our work with Steven Meisel has been critical to establishing a global visual standard and vocabulary for a new Lanvin. The “Character Studies” portraits were first published in 2022, shortly after the product reset, and with this third installment, they remain consistent in their photographic gestures, exposing the essence of individuals, heralding a new tribe of modern elegance and chic. Compared to today’s brand image landscape, I believe there is courage in this appreciation of the individual, in the photographic purity of the image, in the artistic direction from M/M, and in the redesigned logo.

An image from Lanvin’s “Character Studies” series.

Earth Day: So we can assume Peter Copping Is it compatible with the visuality and continuity of the advertisement?

SS.: It is. We discussed campaigns and brand imagery before her nomination and continue to do so as we imagine what will happen next.

Earth Day: I heard that Lanvin will be taking a dark stance on reviews for their spring 2025 collection. Can you explain why?

SS.: We have developed a summer collection that I am sure will be well received by our customers and is a strong continuation of the spring collection shown in June. However, critical reviews seem unnecessary as Peter is at home and actively working on a new silhouette and aesthetic proposal.

Earth Day:How has the absence of a creative director for over a year affected Lanvin’s work and development?

SS.: Despite the obvious challenges, the absence of an artistic director has presented an extraordinary opportunity for the teams to showcase their talent, passion and commitment in a democratic way. As I said, today we run the house within a clear framework that gives discipline and direction to the various functions that collaborate while keeping the brand and the business alive.

Earth Day:What other changes can we expect with Peter Copping coming on board as the new creative director?

SS.: The Lanvin spirit will continue to be processed into modern haute couture and with Peter it will certainly find new expressions and life.

Earth DayLanvin Group’s first-half results announcement said Lanvin will “pursue aggressive initiatives to grow retail and digital traffic” through the remainder of 2024. Can you be more specific?

SS: Like many of our competitors, we are working carefully to secure our market share and strengthen our business with calculated investment and prudent moves in a complex climate. We have great products and exciting initiatives and campaigns to support them through the end of what has certainly been a challenging year so far.

Earth Day:Have you achieved significant growth momentum in the field of leather products and accessories?

SS.: The continued success of our sneaker programs and the Cat bag family, and the introduction of the iconic ballet flat last year, have brought strong results to the category and a message to the market. We have ambitious plans for leather goods and accessories to coincide with the launch of Peter’s first collection next year.

Lanvin’s new Cat bag in hobo form.

The best of WWD