close
close

Main Line at MFW Wasn’t Spring Prep Basics – Essence

Main Line at MFW Wasn’t Spring Prep Basics – Essence

Getty Images

Main lines Milan Fashion Week There may be some strange clothes that hit the runway at many presentations. Despite the many differences between the clothes, designers design skillsThere was a level experiment this felt very impressive – but the usual suspects, codes, were equally prevalent. Milan led to refreshing designs that didn’t feel stuffy, instead the offerings were understated and a little loud. The latter in particular show designers like Maximillian Davis’s Ferragamo showing their ability to shine rather than be swallowed up by the jam-packed MFW calendar.

A model walks the runway at the Salvatore Ferragamo Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2025 show. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2025 presentation revived the ballerina core and gave it new life. Inspired by American dancer and choreographer Katharine Dunham, Davis showcased an elegant wardrobe for off-duty ballerinas. This collection was probably my favorite to come out of MFW; as a former dancer who trained in ballet for nearly a decade, it spoke to me. The textured outerwear was aesthetically pleasing, with a quintessential pairing of dark brown and blush pink, and even the deep burgundy and cherry red were used in interesting ways. Some of the tighter-cut pieces in the collection, like the bodysuits, were interesting; as were the dresses, which gracefully glided over the models’ forms.

A model walks the runway during The Attico fashion show during Milan Womenswear Spring/Summer 2025 in Milan, Italy on September 21, 2024. (Photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

Attico’s collection seemed like the opposite of Ferragamo’s. The clothes by Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio felt like the armor that stylish women should look to for a new chapter in their lives. If someone is entering a new era after a seismic change in their life, such as a new role or perhaps a breakup, the collection is worth a look. Baby pinks, canary yellows and dark greys were the chosen tones. With this color palette, a sophisticated collection was allowed to take shape. Sheer skirts and dresses, along with cage heels, made up some of the most intriguing and sensual pieces among the seasonal arrivals.

A model walks the runway at the Versace Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2025 show. (Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

Donatella Versace heralded a spring marked by extraordinary statement pieces. Office-ready combinations were displayed on models: sleek jackets, a sky-blue low-rise suit, patterned cardigans and sheer red tights. While this collection didn’t exactly feel like spring, it did make an impression. Donatella’s vision of the upcoming spring even included sequins, as did mauve platform sandals. A camel-colored leather jacket worn with cut-off shorts and a navy blue button-down shirt is an outfit for someone who marches to the beat of her own drum.

A model walks the runway at the Bottega Veneta Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 2025 show. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

The relaxed, simple suits at Bottega Veneta made sense. Much of this collection played with office-appropriate garments like trousers, silk dresses, and bold outerwear; these arrivals were juxtaposed with colorful sweater sets and ruffled textures seen on skirts, coats, and beyond. Headpieces worn with some looks seemed to pay homage to the creatures they imagined as children. An asymmetrical wrap skirt worn with trousers was a statement of sorts. And so was the oversized size of nearly every piece that came down the runway; is it cool to wear wide trousers and other casual picks? According to Matthieu Blazy, yes.